Among the millions of other things I have been trying to get done, I finally took the time today to wax one of my boards. Now I just need to make the time to get out on the water, and I don’t even give a shit what the waves are like because more than anything right now, I just need to paddle. The last thing I want is a repeat of last summer because I don’t like getting my ass kicked or pissing blood.* So, this year I’m taking baby steps. If I don’t work on building my upper body strength back up, I’ll be screwed when there’s decent surf.
* Fin to the kidney. No bueno.


