On August 26th, the day of Hurricane Irene, I took Kahlua for a walk on the beach to check out the waves and watch some friends surf in that madness. They were giddy like kids on Christmas, but having been completely knocked around the day before, I had no intentions of joining them in the water. That night turned out to be a memorable one for me, so I especially love this photo. What has developed since then has been a refreshing break from the usual.
Poor thing hasn’t seen a wave in years. Today, she got wet.
Among the millions of other things I have been trying to get done, I finally took the time today to wax one of my boards. Now I just need to make the time to get out on the water, and I don’t even give a shit what the waves are like because more than anything right now, I just need to paddle. The last thing I want is a repeat of last summer because I don’t like getting my ass kicked or pissing blood.* So, this year I’m taking baby steps. If I don’t work on building my upper body strength back up, I’ll be screwed when there’s decent surf.
* Fin to the kidney. No bueno.
Even though this was taken in October, it’s still one of those photos that makes me miss the summer like crazy.





